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    October 30

    早茶

    昨天师兄和同事过来宁波,邀他们去吃晚饭,同行有宁波的朋友。席间谈话,很自然谈到两地的饮食。而饮早茶大概是很多外地人对广东饮食的一个最大的印象。

    最让宁波朋友不解的,是广东人何来那么多时间去喝茶。

    事实是,年轻人,平日是不去饮早茶的,去的都是退了休的人。此时的早茶其实跟逛公园没什么区别,就是多了个去处。喝杯茶,点一笼牛肉球,一张报纸,一个鸟笼,几张嘴,可能就是一个早少。
    到了周末,经常就是一家老小一起出动,是享受天伦之乐的时候。

    我个人觉得,所谓喝茶,茶倒是次要的。只要不是隔夜茶,几乎很少人着重于餐厅茶的质量。如果早一点去霸位,甚至连茶位费都可以免去。(还真有很多升斗市民是为了这免费茶而早到的。)更让人对一个早茶餐厅评论的,是他们的早点做得如何。

    如果你对一家餐厅的早茶留下好印象,往往是他们的早点做得好,而不是茶好。

    不过说来也奇怪,尽管说茶不重要,但在广东,即使再差的餐厅,客人来了,服务员总会先询问,要什么茶?香片、乌龙、普洱、铁观音……当然,茶的质量是另当别论的。

    说起来,早茶的销售,也经历了很多形式。我的经历,最早是“推车仔”。也就是服务员推着一辆辆小车在餐厅穿行,车到了,“靓姐”就会告诉你她的小车装的是什么,你要什么“靓姐”就会给你什么。

    对我来说,虾饺、排骨、牛肉球、凤爪是四个必点的早点。其他常见的还有叉烧包、菜包、猪肝瘦肉粥、牛肉拉肠、蛋挞、榴莲酥、马蹄糕、萝卜糕……当然,还有很多很多很多……(流口水了)

    后来有些餐厅取消了“车仔”,早点在柜面一字排开,客人自己到柜面去取。

    现在比较流行的是给你一张点餐纸,上面印上了餐厅供应的所有东西,客人要什么就在前面做个记号,还可以标上数字表明要几份。

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